Ngorongoro signaled the end of the animal-centric portion of our safari and we were left in a Karatu lodge for 36 hours to observe Christmas. It was one filled with unexpected diversions, including a tiny decorated tree complete with hand strung popcorn garland, attendance at an oddly familiar catholic service, and an outdoor concert put...
We approached Ngorongoro with a Serengeti hangover. It had been too good, too vast on the plain and we were wondering what the caldera could possibly offer that we had not already enjoyed. Plus, we had first passed the Ngorongoro look out spot on a sunny, brilliant afternoon 4 days previous, but now the weather...
Philipo told us the Serengeti would be good. I rattled off a list of animals and for each one his smile grew wider as he said over and over yes, yes, many, many. I believed him, but it turns out that before I saw it I didn’t have the capacity to imagine what – how...
